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Guerrilla
Photography: Portraiture 101
Or It's NOT that hard
to make good images - just THINK First! Here's how:
This
Guide is being revised and updated (at long last), so please forgive
the unfinished condition...
Before the instruction, a little eye candy and a few lessons:
Okay, let's start out with a subject just about everyone likes (and many love; some passionately:): Lovely young ladies!* |
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Portraiture: What makes a Good Portrait? Why does this photo
catch our eye? What is it about this picture that makes it any
better than any snapshot we might take of a child, relative,
or friend? |
Of course, the fact that the girl is attractive, certainly doesn't hurt; but the important aspect here is for you to look at this photo and notice what about it makes it different from, and better than, most of our pictures. Start nourishing the "Photographer's Eye" right now, and take notice of the differences between "good" images, and the average, boring, everyday snapshots. What is it about these 3 pictures that makes them interesting to us? One aspect often overlooked is the fact that outside of a handful of people who know the model personally, we can all enjoy these pictures! A great portrait will appeal to anyone who gazes at it, without knowing or caring about "who" the model is, or where she's at. Start making interesting portraits. And herein lies some helpful suggestions. |
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Creative DOF and use of color Another shot of the same lovely girl. Again, she's looking directly at us (into the lens), and again, there is good "modeling" (light and shadow) on the face. Notice how the photographer has used "depth of field" (DOF) creatively in this picture ("depth of field" is photospeak for the areas in a photograph which are sharp and clear, and the other parts are blurred). DOF is a creative tool in all photographs (what you choose to show as sharp, and what you choose to blur)! More on this below (DOF is explained fully in another Guide). The photographer purposely allowed us to see enough of the blurred girl in the background to recognize that it was a girl in a hat (and to establish place and circumstance), but out of focus to draw our eye to main subject's (lovely) face. Also notice the creative use of the color blue to highlight the model's beautiful blue eyes. Notice the eyes.... |
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Our final photograph in this series is also striking, for the same reasons as were the two above, but notice how much darker her eyes appear in this picture and the top picture. Compare the apparent color of the girl's eyes in all three shots. The same model, and the same eyes. The lighting (direction, intensity, intention) and the background colors are among your most powerful creative tools (remember my admonishing you "Control the Light!"?). Here, too, the model looks directly into the lens (directly at the viewer), but this picture is the sexiest of all - without actually showing anything - because of the photographer's framing (or cropping) of the shot just barely above... well, you get the idea :) And yes, the model was 18 when these pictures were made. She's older now, and almost as fetching. ;-) Are you beginning to get a feel for some of the important aspects of portraiture? Here are the 3 most important ideas to keep in mind with each shot: 1) Have a theme (youth, innocence, allure, beauty, etc.), make it about something more than "who" the subject is. 2) Direct the viewer's attention to your subject (focus, lighting, framing, cropping). 3) Simplify your shots (eliminate everything extraneous! Nothing should appear in your shot that distracts from your subject or intention). |
| The greatest photographers ....think outside the box! | | More images of lovely lasses are available by request photosource3@pss3.com |
| What's "Guerrilla Photography?" It's a new method of teaching beginners about photography (invented by me, myself, and I, no less) that leaves out all the extraneous stuff. Ordinary photographic education starts out by making the beginner learn about the physics of light, the intricacies of lenses, the interrelationships of focus, shutter speed, and apertures that results in the assigning of f stops, the details of depth of field, and charts and graphs to confuse us even more. So I decided to tell folks exactly how to get a great image, but without all the extraneous stuff.. Read the rest, below... | |
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Is our subject old or young? What color is his/her clothing? What color is his hair? What color are her eyes? How can we make one or more of those colors (or shades) stand out and emphasize the attractiveness of our subject? Perhaps by using an appropriate background, or placing our subject in an appropriate setting. Look at the examples below, and see how the simple choice of using even a plain, solid color background that matches our subject's eye color, can improve our pictures dramatically. But before going any further, please be aware that I'm not purporting to be a teacher, nor can I guarantee that everything I say is 100% correct (heck, I can't guarantee that anything I say is correct). Proceed at your own risk! |
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| Quickie Technique 101: Portraits - Where do we put the camera? Which part of the face do we focus on? How far away should we be? First, use a tripod. When? ALWAYS! Unless it's impossible, always use a tripod, and get a remote trigger, as well. Let's start out by learning that we always must consider not only where we choose to place our light, but also learn that we can add a little drama to our photography by considering the exact opposite of light. What's that? It's SHADOWS, of course. One of the great benefits of having lighting equipment (or placement of our subjects in available light) is it allows us to choose exactly where we put the light and where we put the shadows. Look at the example photos below, and you'll see what I mean. So let's start by learning that shadows are just as important as the highlights, and controlling the lighting also means controlling the shadows, and that's one of the most important lessons this guide is hoping to teach you. OK, let's get started. FIRST, review the lighting setup diagrams on our Lighting Diagrams page. Setting up 1) Place the camera about 8-12 feet away from the subject (or at as close to that as is possible); 2) Set the camera (on the tripod) at subject's eye level; 3) Use a lens of approximately 85mm (or set your zoom lens to around that setting if you can; if not, just use the lens you have); 4) Set the camera's aperture to f8 (or between f5.6 to f11 or as close to that as you can reasonably get); 5) Focus on the eyes; 6) Light one side of the face brighter than the other (half in medium to heavy shadow - see images below); if you're using lighting equipment, place one light at about a 45º angle on each side of the subject's face and set the fill light (the light on the shadow side of the subject) at around 50% or 1/2 the power as the main light. Place a third light behind the subject, hidden from the camera's view, and pointing towards the background to light the backdrop and blow away the shadows and provide depth and separation. If you have a 4th light, place it next to or slightly behind the camera to provide the "catch light" in the eyes (the little white dot seen in the eyes to give it the "live" feel. If you have a boom, set a light above the subject, facing down to use as a hair light (to provide that healthy "glow" on the hair - especially for women. If you're shooting outdoors or using available light, place the subject in a position that allows for medium to heavy shading on part of the face. You can also use a white poster board (available at art supply stores, office product stores, and many other places - I got mine at a drugstore for .39¢) or if you're in a pinch, use even a white towel, pillowcase, sheet or similar item as a reflector to "bounce" some of the ambient light onto the shadow side of the victim's face to create the appropriate lighting effects. The very BEST solution to proper lighting is to have some studio lights; but just placing your victim in the proper place with available light is just fine to start with. I'll explain the "why should I do this" for each of these steps in another guide. |
| Be Creative: Endeavor to make your photographs say something more than "this is uncle Donald." Yes, every picture of uncle Donald will be a picture of uncle Donald. But instead of just being of interest to the few people who know uncle Donald, make it an image of an older man sitting thoughtfully, perhaps on his front porch. Make your photograph say something that everyone can find interesting, not just the few who know the subject. Uncle Donald can be sitting in his rocking chair on his front porch with a cigarette dangling from his fingers, or his pipe held gently in his hand as he gazes, thoughtfully, downward. You would also have placed uncle Donald in a position so that his face is appropriately lit, perhaps with half in a medium shadow, to give shape and interest. Also consider making the picture black and white, as well. The results will be so much better than the average, run of the mill, portrait. Those who know uncle Donald will remark: "Isn't that just like uncle Donald - sitting on the porch with his favorite pipe," and those who don't know uncle Donald will admire a scene that has universal interest as a study in human nature. With today's photographic magic it's easy to make a picture using a ChromaKey backdrop, and drop in any background you like; uncle Don can be in New York's Central Park, or in a forest, or anywhere else you can dream of. And don't just read this and say it sounds like a good idea - make some images like this just as soon as you can. |
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Making the subject look good: Take the time and thought to prepare your photo sessions long before your subject arrives! Learn to know what you want before you put film or a memory card in your camera. Learn to "design" your pictures before you pick up your camera! Take a piece of paper and a pencil, and sketch out what you want in the picture you're considering; this will be a great help in the beginning, and after a few weeks or months of doing this, you'll start to do it all in your head, and won't need the pencil and paper any more. |
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Our New Help Page | Sales and special opportunities |
Still under revision!
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OK,
at this point we have learned to think before we shoot; to take into consideration our subject's age, tone, hair color, clothing color, and eye color, and then choose the best background for our pictures. We've learned to look around and make sure we avoid unnecessary and distracting objects in our pictures (like phone poles, tree trunks, or someone's dirty old socks laying on the chair next to our subjects). We've learned to consider using a photo background to emphasize the attractive aspects of the subject we're photographing, and in so doing, removing any background distractions. Also, we've learned to avoid direct sunlight when shooting outdoors. And when we don't have the freedom to change a distracting background, we've learned some techniques we can use to deal with it. Not bad for just a few paragraphs, huh? It won't be long before you'll be doing all this preparation automatically. You'll glance around your shooting locations, make mental note of things to avoid, choose the best location to place your subject, and know exactly what to do when the shoot begins. If you're shooting in your studio or at a client's home or office, you'll have taken note of your subject's age, gender, hair & eye color, facial imperfections, and body form. You will then know exactly what type of background(s) you'll want to use, which light modifiers (umbrellas, softboxes, etc.) to bring along, and what results the client expects.
OK, so what have we learned today? We learned to think and plan our shots before shooting any pictures. We learned to look around our shooting location to determine where we'll place our victims to achieve the best results. We learned about backgrounds, and how to use even the simplest background (a piece of fabric or a plain wall) to improve our pictures. We learned to make sure distracting and annoying objects don't ruin our images (phone poles, dirty socks, etc.). We learned to look at our subjects to determine and emphasize the best attributes of our subjects, and to identify the unattractive aspects of our subjects (big nose, bald head, etc.), and to hide or de-emphasize some of the negative attributes, as well. We learned how to set up our camera (on a tripod, with remote trigger), where to focus in portraiture (on the eyes), and how to light a subject's face (light to heavy shadow on one side). We learned that using umbrellas or softboxes will help hide those lines and wrinkles that sneak up on us as we age. Not too shabby for just the few minutes it took you to read this guide, huh? © 2011 RMorgan All rights reserved |
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| Well, I hope this had some ideas and suggestions that were helpful to you. But in any event, grab that camera and go make some great images. And have fun doing it! Also, don't miss my other photographic "Tips and Techniques" in the links below. Additionally, I've posted some photographic guides on eBay, some of which are duplicates of the information presented here and in the links below, but definitely check out the guides on children - especially these two on how to photograph children in Kids #1 and Kids #2 - you'll be glad you did. And on a different note, here's an experience I had that taught me a very profound lesson about seeing - and understanding - beauty. | |||||||||
| Guerrilla Photography continued... Please don't
get me wrong - I definitely believe every professional photographer
should know every aspect of the art and craft of the photographic
processes - but for many of us, especially when we're just starting
out, all we want to do is to know how to make a great portrait
of our uncle Joe, or aunt Mabel; not every scientific detail
behind every aspect of the photographic process. For example,
when i look at one of the gigabyte memory cards i use in my digital
camera, I'm amazed how they can fit all that data on a tiny little
card the size of a postage stamp - but I don't want to read a
300-page manual on how the miracle was accomplished! All i want
is to have it work in my camera. Similarly, Guerrilla Photography tells me exactly what to do in order to get the results I want - without all the endless details behind every step of the process. An example: In step #3 in the "Setting Up" section above, I tell you to use a lens of approximately 85mm. Why? Because telephoto lenses compress depth, and the amount of depth compression that results from an 85mm lens results in the most pleasing images of the human face. That's an interesting and important piece of information for a photographer to know - but is it really necessary to achieving a great portrait? No. In a future educational guide, I'll be explaining all these details for those who are interested, or those who want to become a professional photographer. But "Guerrilla Photography" tells you exactly what to do to get the picture you want - without all the extraneous details. I hope this helps, and feel free to drop me an e-mail photosource3@pss3.com with any suggestions you might have, or just to let me know if you found this helpful. Thanks. Back to the top |
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| All these pictures were in Vogue magazine. Look at them; what do you notice? What one lighting effect do they all have in common? One side of the face is in shadow, to one degree or another! Shadows give our facial images shape, texture, definition, interest, and drama. Shadows are our friends! Love shadows. USE shadows! Back up | |||
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| The art in using professional lighting is the ability to choose exactly where to place the shadows, and exactly how pronounced we want those shadows to be! Even if we're using available light, as in the outdoor picture on the right, above, we can choose where to place our subjects so that the shadows fall where we want them to fall! We don't have as much control when working with available light, but we can vastly improve our images by placing our subjects in the right places and in the right positions, and we can use reflectors to exercise some control over the light. But don't think that just getting a bunch of professional studio lights will automatically make you a great photographic artist! You have to learn how to use your lights just like you learned to drive a car. But after a while, it becomes second nature. BTW, yes, I know there are times and situations when we want fully-frontal, shadowless images of faces - but that's fodder for another guide someday; for now, let's work with light and shadow and see what develops (pun intended). Also, the "why" of all the instructions in this guide can be found and explained elsewhere among my guides and auctions; this is just a "quickie" photo lesson - do what is instructed, and you'll enjoy creating some wonderful images and discover hidden talents as you work with light and shadow. Back up |
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See above for larger size images and discussion. |
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© 2011Photographer's SupplyStation RMorgan All rights reserved